Our tips for a great
getaway in... Bordeaux France
Bordeaux: you’ve heard of it, probably even drunk it. But have you thought about visiting it? The city has metamorphosised in the last five years from a grimy and dusty provincial capital known for its world-famous wines, but not much else. Today, it’s celebrating its new-found status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, gunning for European City of Culture in 2013 and generally basking in a multi-billion makeover that has turned it into one of France’s most attractive weekend destinations. Wine still rules, of course, but galleries, museums, restaurants, bars and innovative urban spaces such as the city’s quays and parks are giving the liquid stuff a run for its money.
bestwine-related outing: La Winery You can’t come to Bordeaux without doing something that involves grapes. One of the more unusual offerings takes place at La Winery, a modern glass-and-steel structure that opened in 2007 and is about a 25 minute drive away, in the Medoc region. Stop off here to find out your wine horoscope by answering a series of questions determining your knowledge and preferences for wine – will you be a Sensualist, a Gourmet or an Aesthete? Where >La Winery, Rond-point des Vendangeurs, Départementale 1, Arsac-en-Médoc, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 39 04 90. Website > www.lawinery.fr
bestplace to get some culture: CAPC (museum of modern art) Hands-down one of the coolest spaces in the city, the huge CAPC (museum of modern art) was originally a sugar warehouse in 18th century, but is now the best spot for viewing international art, from video projections to huge installations that make the most of the building’s vast dimensions. On the roof, a cafe-restaurant serves a Sunday brunch worth travelling for. Where >Musee D'Art Contemporain De Bordeaux (CAPC), 7, rue Ferrere, Bordeaux, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 81 50. view map Website > www.bordeaux.fr
bestarchitecture: The Grand Theatre Celebrating the traditional side of the city, the outrageously opulent 18th century Grand Theatre is all neo-classical columns and honey-coloured limestone. Designed by Victor Louis (who also whipped up the Palais Royal in Paris), don’t miss the inside, with its trompe d’oeil ceilings and enormous chandeliers, or a night at the opera for a really special holiday treat. Where >Opéra National de Bordeaux, Grand-Théâtre, Place de la Comedie, Bordeaux, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 85 95. view map Website > www.opera-bordeaux.com
bestmeal with a view: L'Estacade Make the most of the city’s crescent-shaped harbour, known as Port de la Lune, and the sparkling 18th century buildings that line the waterfront by heading over to the Right Bank (the area is known locally as La Bastide) and to a restaurant-on-stilts out in the river called L’Estacade. Here you’ll find a relaxed atmosphere, good seafood, an excellent wine list and of course, a sterling view. Where >L'Estacade, Quai de Queyries, La Bastide, Tel: +33 (0)5 57 54 02 50. view map Website > www.lestacade.com
bestplace to splash around: The Miroir d’Eau The Miroir d’Eau is a 3,500m2 reflective lake that opened in 2006 directly opposite the city’s handsome 18th century square, Place de La Bourse, besides the Garonne river. It’s the largest of its kind in the world and is bordered by gardens and large paved spaces. So far, so grandiose urban feature; but what architect Jean-Max Llorca may not have counted on was that it would turn into one of Bordeaux’s best-loved play areas, primarily as a giant paddling pool for the city. The water is on a continual loop that alternates between small jets, mist and shallow water that reaches just two centimetres deep – perfect for stripping off and running around in on hot days! Where >The Miroir d’Eau, Jardin des Lumières, Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux. view map Website > www.bordeaux.fr
bestday trip: Saint Emilion Half an hour away to the east of Bordeaux, the medieval town of Saint Emilion is another UNESCO-world heritage site where many of the attractions lie underground – check out Europe’s largest monolithic cathedral, and the host of caves that today store some of the region’s best-loved bottles. When you come out blinking into the sunlight, head to some of the restaurants around the two main squares, Place du Clocher and Place du Marché. Where >Saint Emilion Tourist Office, Place des Créneaux, Saint-Emilion, Tel: 33 (0)5 57 55 28 28. view map Website > www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com
bestlocal delicacy: canalé You’re not going to go hungry in Bordeaux. The Atlantic coast is slap-bang next door, and two big rivers run through the region, bringing mountains of fresh fish to restaurant tables (oysters being a particular favourite), and the local red wines mean that entrecôte à la bordelaise (steak served with shallots and red wine) is never far away. But save yourself for the desserts – and in particular the small dome-shaped cake, known as a canalé, that’s caramelised on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside. Baillardran makes some of the most sought-after examples of this delicious treat. Where >Baillardran, 263 rue Judaique, Bordeaux, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 99 13 75. view map Website > www.baillardran.com
Compiled by Jane Anson
besttrivia
Bordeaux grows over a third of the world's merlot grape, and nearly a fifth of its cabernet sauvignon!
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