Tempting though it is to head straight to the Algarve’s beach resorts, don’t neglect a visit to the region’s capital and most cosmopolitan town. Once past the high-rise outskirts, you’ll find a neat little historic centre snuggled round a sleepy palm-lined marina. Radiating out from here are the distinctive mosaic-paved central streets, full of great little shops and fragrant cafés. And don’t miss a stroll round the Cidade Velha, the partly walled old town whose church towers are often capped with ragged storks’ nests.
bestoddity: Chapel of Bones Head through the Baroque interior of the Igreja do Carmo church and follow the signs to the Capela dos Ossos – a chapel eerily lined with the remains of disinterred human skeletons. The skulls and ghoulish bones, mostly from monks, were the church’s subtle way of reminding people of their mortality.
Where >Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), Igreja do Carmo, Largo do Carmo. view map Website > www.cm-faro.pt
besttourist must-see: Archaeological Museum This is the Algarve’s oldest museum, set in and around the beautiful cloisters of a 16th-century former convent. An archaeological romp through time, there are superb Roman mosaics, beautiful Moorish lamps, bowls and various paintings, from the Renaissance to futurist works by contemporary artists. Where >Museum of Archaeology (Museu Nacional de Arqueologia), Praça Afonso III, Faro. Tel: +351 289 897 400. view map Website > www.mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt
bestplace for coffee and cake: Café Gardy How to find out why Portugal is famed for its superb cakes and pastries: First peruse the café’s glass counter, stacked high with superb pastéis de nata (custard cream tarts) and bolos (small cakes), then grab a table on the street outside (a great place to people watch), order your choice with a fresh coffee, sit back and enjoy. Where >Café Gardy, Rua de Santo António 16, Faro, Tel: +351 289 824 062. view map
bestview: from the Cathedral (Sé) clocktower Faro’s cathedral is itself impressive, but don’t miss the chance to climb the narrow staircase up to its clock tower. Here, underneath a vast, pendulous iron bell, you can admire the best views in Faro, overlooking the terracotta rooftops of the old town and across the mudflats of the adjacent Parque Natural da Ria Formosa.
Where >Faro Cathedral, Largo da Sé, Vila-Adentro, Faro. view map Website > www.cm-faro.pt
bestfamily restaurant: Adega Nova Its position near the station is unglamorous, but once inside the bustling interior of the Adega Nova, families are usually sure of a relaxing meal. Its barn-like interior has enough curios on the walls to keep children amused, even without the TV in a corner. The food is excellent value with a sumptuous array of grilled meats, fish and salads, while its rows of benches can accommodate enough families for a wedding party. Where >Adega Nova, 24 Rua Francisco Barreto, Faro, Tel: +351 289 813 433. view map
bestfor golf lovers: Vilamoura Vilamoura is the capital of the Algarve’s clubs – of the golfing variety. An easy drive or bus ride from Faro, the purpose-built resort has five top-of-the range courses, including the Oceânico Victoria course that hosts the Portuguese Open. Where >Oceânico Victoria, Vilamoura, Loulé, Algarve (25km west of Faro). view map Website > www.oceanicogolf.comwww.algarvegolf.net
bestfor romance: Pousada da Graça hotel Set in a beautifully converted former convent, this chic hotel is one of the most romantic spots in Portugal. The Pousada is in the small town of Tavira, 30km west of Faro. There’s a swimming pool nestled within parts of the old town walls, a stylish bar (whose glass floor guards the remains of a Moorish settlement) and superb buffet breakfasts can be enjoyed within the old cloisters.
Where >Pousada da Graça, Rua D. Paio Peres Correia, Tavira, Tel: +351 281 389 040. view map Website > www.pousadas.pt
bestouting on water: boat trips to the Ilha Deserta The “deserted isle” is the most southerly point of mainland Portugal, and though there is a seasonal café – O Estaminé – on its superb sandy beach, the bulk of its inhabitants are of the two-winged variety. Where >O Estaminé, Ilha Deserta Tel: +351 917 811 856 Website > www.ilha-deserta.com
Compiled by Matthew Hancock
besttrivia
The likes of Madonna and half the England football team have been spotted holidaying in the upmarket resorts of Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo just outside Faro, while Portuguese soccer legend Luís Figo often pops into his bar, Sete, in nearby Vilamoura marina.
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