Brits may be brought up on tales of Sherwood Forest and the castle at Camelot, but for Poles, it’s Krakow that dishes up all the best legends. Dastardly dragons, moustachioed magicians, enchanted pigeons – you can hardly turn a corner without a phantom on your tail. And while Krakow may be on the small side for a former Royal capital (even the castle seems a tad titchy), the city has charm by the bucket-load. Magnificent buildings stud the streets, and there’s an ever-growing array of shops, bars and restaurants. All in all, the city hasn’t looked this good in decades.
bestcafé: Café Camelot It often seems that there’s a café for every cobble here in Krakow. Café Camelot has nothing to do with King Arthur and his knights, but the place has its very own brand of magic. In spite of uncomfortable chairs, unpredictable service and tourist prices, Camelot still scoops the crown. Winning factors are the folkloric décor, the sublime apple cake and the delicious barszcz (beetroot soup). Upstairs, the art gallery ranks among Krakow’s finest, while down in the cellars top bands cast their spells. Where >Café Camelot, ul. Sw. Tomasza 17, Krakow, Tel: +48 12 4230638. view map
bestsnack: pierogi They may not make for the most refined dish on the Polish menu, but most Poles have been smitten by the pierogi (dumpling) since childhood. Pierogi are a kind of comfort food, and Krakow now even boasts its very own dumpling festival. Massively overrated or the ultimate tasty snack? Decide for yourselves at Pierogi U Vincenta. Where >Pierogi U Vincenta, ul. Jozefa 11, Krakow. view map
bestview: Krakow from The Krak Mound The Krak Mound (Kopiec Krakusa), named after the legendary founder of Krakow, presents many opportunities for getting lost. But half the fun is in finding it. Rising over the southern fringe of the city, the Mound is a pure pagan marvel. Climb up for an epic panorama of Krakow, plus a bird’s eye view over the deserted Liban lime quarry, itself like a set from The Lord of the Rings. A new footbridge at ul. E. Dembowskiego links the mound with the Podgorze district district, the logical point of approach and an evocative destination in its own right – Podgorze was founded as a separate town by the Austrians in 1784.
Where >Kopiec Krakusa, Plac Przystanek, Podgorze, Krakow. view map
bestchurch: Kosciol Franciszkanow Krakow was once dubbed a “second Rome”. Stanislaus, Poland’s patron saint, was archbishop here 900 years ago, as was his 20th century successor Karol Wojtyla (who later became Pope John Paul II), who often prayed in the fantastical Franciscan Church. The building is an absolute wonder. Decorated 100 years ago by Krakow’s – and arguably Poland’s – greatest artist, Stanislaw Wyspianski, it’s a blazing masterpiece of Cracovian Art Nouveau. Miraculous. Where >Kosciol Franciszkanow, ul. Franciszkanska, Krakow. view map Website > www.franciszkanska.pl
bestvodka: Zubrowka vodka Zubrowka vodka comes dripping in ice-cool history. Kings used to knock it back during bison hunts, and Somerset Maugham waxed lyrical about it in The Razor’s Edge. Every bottle comes with a blade of grass from Europe’s last primeval forest, Bialowieza. The vodka is best served neat from the freezer, or alternatively as a Tatanka, with apple juice and a squeeze of lemon. Head to the aptly titled “Wodka Bar” for some head-spinning adventures.
Where >Wodka Bar, ul, Mikolajska 5, Krakow, Tel: +48 12 4223214. view map
bestplace for ghosts: Rakowicki Cemetery Christopher Lee would love Rakowicki Cemetery. You could well imagine him stepping out from behind a tomb, complete with Count D’s cape and a pair of gleaming fangs. Many heroic figures are buried here, and as each season turns the graveyard takes on a new aspect. Take tram no. 2 to Cmentarz Rakowicki. Where >Rakowicki Cemetery (Cmentarz Rakowicki), ulica Rakowicka, Krakow. view map
Krakow has its very own – and very weird – Elvis monument, suitably located on Elvis Presley Avenue (Aleja Elvisa Presleya).
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