Over two and a half millennia of history, enough culture to keep anyone going for months and an abiding taste for the good things in life make the Eternal City a destination that you can visit several times without ever repeating yourself. The city feels like a living film set, with its flamboyant Baroque churches and palazzos, its alfresco restaurants, its outbreaks of street theatre as rows erupt, waiters juggle plates and impromptu parties take over neighbourhood piazzas. It’s lively all year ’round, except in August, when Romans flee the city heat.
bestfamily pizzeria: Remo Pretty much any restaurant in Italy is child-friendly, but Remo has what kids really need: delicious thin-crust Roman pizzas, disposable paper tablecloths for drawing on, and a park with a play area just across the road in one of central Rome’s most authentic areas. In summer the whole neighbourhood moves out into the piazza, and the swings and climbing frames are busy till late. (Closed Sun). Where >Remo, piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, Rome, Tel: +39 06 574 6270. view map
bestvintage store: Le Gallinelle Le Gallinelle, a cute boutique in funky via del Boschetto, offers a mix of ultra-select vintage and own-brand new clothes and accessories for women and men. It was once a polleria, where you went to buy chicken –the walk-in fridge is now the changing room! Where >Le Gallinelle, via del Boschetto 76, Rome, Tel: +39 06 488 1017. view map Website > www.legallinelle.it
bestsouvenir: I Sapori della Legalità deli Shop with a conscience at I Sapori della Legalità, a deli with a difference: it only stocks products made by cooperatives of young people on farmland confiscated from the Mafia. (Closed Sat & Sun). Where >I Sapori della Legalità, via del Foro del Traiano 84, Rome, Tel: +39 06 6992 5262. view map
bestview: Altare della Patria Romans often grumble – and rightly so – about the Altare della Patria, the huge bombastic marble monument to Italian unity that dominates central Piazza Venezia. But the new 12-person glass lift that climbs up the back of the monstrosity to the roof allows you the privilege of enjoying the one view of the centro storico that isn’t marred by the Altare della Patria: well worth the €7 fee. Where >Altare della Patria, piazza Venezia, Rome, Tel: +39 06 699 1718. view map
bestlive venue: Auditorium Parco Della Musica Renzo Piano’s design for Rome’s new music venue mixes the futuristic with the traditional (the wood in the three concert halls was worked according to ancient Genoese shipbuilding techniques). Take a guided tour (check the website for details) or come for a concert. But book well in advance – the place has proved a huge hit.
Where >Auditorium Parco Della Musica, via P De Coubertin 15, Rome, Tel: +39 06 8024 1281. view map Website > www.auditorium.com
bestbeer: at the Antica Birreria Peroni It may seem odd to recommend a birreria (pub) in a city steeped in wine culture, but the Antica Birreria Peroni has a venerable history. It also has the best draught beer in town, with four on tap: Nastro Azzurro (just ask for “una birra chiara”); the double malt Peroni Gran Riserva; a fruity red ale called Crystal Red and (just in case you’re feeling homesick) Fuller’s London Pride. They also do a decent range of pasta dishes, salads, and meaty main courses. (Closed Sun) Where >Antica Birreria Peroni, via San Marcello 19, Rome, Tel: +39 06 679 5310. view map Website > www.anticabirreriaperoni.it
bestnew ancient site: The House of Augustus Opened to the public in March 2008, the House of Augustus on the Palatine hill is a major addition to the Rome sightseeing map. Compared to later emperors like Nero, Augustus lived in fairly modest surroundings. But the trompe l’oeil frescoes that adorn the four small rooms that have so far been restored signal the owner’s lofty status, and the colours are so vivid they positively leap out at you. (English spoken; tickets also include entrance to the Colosseum). Where >The House of Augustus is part of the Forum/Palatine archaeological area. Entrances: Piazza di Santa Maria Nova 53 or Via di San Gregorio 30. Tel: +39 06 06 08. view map Website > www.pierreci.it
Compiled by Lee Marshall
besttrivia
The Colosseum could seat up to 50,000 people; its 80 exits allowed crowds to leave in under five minutes – which compares well even with safety-conscious modern football stadiums.
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