Our tips for a great
getaway in... Toulouse France
“La vie en rose,” la Ville Rose, the “pink city”: Toulouse. Nestled in the Midi-Pyrénées Region at the heart of Southwestern France, this city of vivid pink brick is home to artists, thriving student and gay communities, and Europe's aerospace industry. With over one million inhabitants in its greater cosmopolitan area, it’s the fourth-largest and fastest-growing city in France, perennially offering a range of events celebrating the Garonne River, the Languedoc, and Occitan culture. Its historic nucleus is lined with quirky shops and romantic cafés that are busy by day, and lively pubs and wild discos that spring to life at night. Architectural wonders south of the Rue Metz, magical gardens and museums spread across town, and the romantic banks along the Garonne River will have you begging, “Can I stay longer, please?”
bestgarden: Jardin Japonais The pink city is also green! An alternative to the University gardens (Ave. de la Marne) and majestic Jardin Royal (Rue Ozenne) is the intimate 7,000 square-metre “Jardin Japonais,” located north of the city centre in the Compans Cafareli quarter, inside the larger Parc de Toulouse. Created in 1981 in the fashion of 14th-16th century Kyoto gardens, the Japanese garden of Toulouse boasts a prestigious national “grand prix” for its exotic blossoms. A peaceful locale ideal for meditation, it has a red wood bridge that reaches to an island symbolizing paradise, upon which sits a graceful pavilion that serves Japanese teas and cakes. Fancy a journey to the Far East while visiting Toulouse? Open every day 7:45am to 6:30pm (spring) or 9pm (summer). Where >Jardin Japonais du Parc de Toulouse, Esplanade Compans-Cafarelli, 160, Boulevard Lascrosses view map
besttraditional dish: Cassoulet Don’t miss a chance to taste Toulousain “cassoulet,” a hearty white bean and pork stew that’s cooked for no less than eight hours. Legend has it that this Occitain delicacy was first cooked in 1355, when the hungry townspeople of nearby Castelnaudary, besieged by the Black Prince, Edward of Wales, gathered their remaining victuals into a big black cauldron. Today, the charming Bistrot Le Van Gogh café stews the best “cassoulet” in town: tender white beans, rich confit de canard (duck fat), and tasty saucisses de Toulouse, or pork shoulder sausage distinctly spiced with garlic, sugar, and herbs. Where >Bistrot Le Van Gogh, 21, Place St. Georges view map
bestmodern art fix: Espace d’Art Moderne et Contemporain Toulouse’s modern art museum, the Espace d’Art Moderne et Contemporain, which opened in 1998 on the site of the old slaughterhouse, is for that reason commonly known as “Les Abattoirs”. To complement stellar permanent exhibits, Les Abattoirs sponsors expos featuring international, national, and local artists year-round. It also hosts a large gift shop and a newly opened teashop and café-restaurant, called l’Hémicycle, serving meat dishes in slaughterhouse fashion. Allons-y! Where >Espace d’Art Moderne et Contemporain, 76, allées Charles-de-Fitte, Toulouse view map Website > www.lesabatoirs.org
bestflea markets: Marché aux puces St-Sernin Every Saturday and Sunday starting around dawn, spread across the Place St-Sernin in the city centre, is a “marché aux puces” where local vendors of diverse personalities sell their wares: clothing, gifts, books, furniture, trinkets, antiques, toys, and curiosities of all kinds. Arrive at 6am for the best pickings, or wander the square in mid-afternoon for last-minute haggling and deals. If antiquarian print gems are also to your taste, be sure to visit the used book “marché” at the Place St-Etienne, 9am to 4pm on Saturdays. Saturday and Sunday, 6am-2pm; books at Place St-Etienne, 9am to 4pm Saturday Where >Place St-Sernin, 31000 Toulouse view map
bestthrift shop: Le Grenier d’Anais Wonderful décor and vintage “frangs” (French slang for “duds”) are for the taking at Anais’s attic, or “Le Grenier d’Anais” (54 rue Peyrolières; tel. 05 62 30 07 16). Here, you’ll find men’s and women’s retro clothing, circa 1900 to the eighties and nineties. Try on gowns, lingerie, leather jackets, luscious furs, wedding dresses and veils, and also coats, suits, military uniforms, and a range of wacky costumes for masqued-balls. Next, browse the belts, shoes, gloves, glasses, funky hats, and fantastic jewelry. These and the attic’s other curiosities--like handmade doilies, embroidered linen, and antiquated “cartes postales” you can send home--make original and fun gifts. Where >Le Grenier d’Anais, 54, Rue Peyrolières, Toulouse view map Website > www.legrenierdanais.com
bestvegetarian fare: La Faim des Haricots What freshness! What zing! In a little alley adjacent to la rue Saint-Rome you’ll find La Faim des Haricots, a small, inexpensive, and downright adorable vegetarian eatery offering vegan options and a plat du jour (plate of the day), as well as your choice of salad, savoury pie, soup, and dessert buffets. To accompany your main course, choose one buffet, or all four. Psst! The locals’ favourites include vegetarian chili, oriental semolina, Texan-spiced endives, and eggplant ratatouille, all available in handy 100g take-out servings. Where >3, Rue du Puits Vert, Toulouse view map
bestday trip: Auch On the west bank of the Gers River, 40 miles west of Toulouse in the heart of the Duchy of Gascony, is the pretty market town of Auch. Divided into upper and lower quarters, Auch is interlaced by impressive stairways that lend astounding views of the Pyrénées. Hike down the 232-step “Escalier Monumental” to visit the swirling Gers River below. Climb back up and make for the north end of the town square, which houses the handsome Gothic church, the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, constructed from the 15th to the 17th centuries. Now that’s architecture! Where > By car take the N124 west from Toulouse, or thany SNCF trains and buses departing daily (€10-12 one way)e m Website > www.auch-tourisme.com
Compiled by Onnaca Heron
besttrivia
Toulouse is called the “pink city” thanks to a raging fire that destroyed many of its wooden buildings back in 1463. Inhabitants rebuilt their dwellings using bricks made from the red clay that they gathered along the banks of the Garonne River. When dry, these bricks gave off the cheerful pink glow that we still enjoy today
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